Friday, January 7, 2011

Pantani's Last Stand

Guest contributor Nick, from Grupetto Italia in the UK, sends in his story of "Pantani's Last Stand". Grupetto Italia offers a complete range of “Pantani Project Bikes” and with every bike purchased a donation of €100 is given to Fondazione Pantani, the foundation set up in his honor by family and friends.

"Say what you like about Marco Pantani, he was a fantastic bike rider when the road went uphill, he was a true 'great' and still today he leaves a lasting impression on our sport and all those that witnessed his exploits. One such occasion that I was privileged enough to witness 'alla strada', as they say in Italy, was prophetically the last time Pantani climbed a mountain in his beloved Giro and sadly the last time anyone saw a true "acceleration" from il Pirata.

The road up the Ossola valley is gentle then, bang, turn right for 40km of happy climbing!:

Back in early 2003, following the announcement of the Giro route, I could hardly contain my excitement that stage 19 was going to finish close to where I live, on a climb I know well 'The Cascata del Toce'. Although not well known outside of the region, this beautiful alpine climb that wiggles its way up a small valley in the Piedmontese Alps finishing to the Swiss border, was going to provide a superb finale to the race, as this was "last chance" saloon for the GC boys coming only 2 days before the Milan finish - this was going to be where the Giro winner was confirmed.

Come May, as the race wound its way around the boot, Gilberto Simoni then riding for Saeco, (red train and all) was dominating and as they got to 'our' stage he led Garzelli by around 8 minutes with Pantani outside the top ten looking like a rider sadly past his sell by date.

So the day arrived and in my eagerness I was on my way up the Ossola valley early in the morning riding past pink villages & towns all anticipating the races arrival later that day. The stage itself was a long one, 239km from Canelli, in the Asti region, it had a pretty flat profile until it hit the Formazzo turn around 40km out. Subsequently nothing major happened on the run in (apart from friend of Pez Maggie Backstedt grabbing points to secure the Intergiro title - if I remember correct - I got to get out more!).

The 2003 Giro glides effortlessly past Lago d'Orta, before the final big climb up to the waterfall.

So I had a leisurely ride to the base of the Formazzo valley where the road begins to wind up to the Cascate (waterfall) of the Toce river and joined in with hundreds of other locals getting to their viewing points. I had arranged to meet up with my father at the top so slowly but surely I crawled along, the crowds getting bigger and more vocal as I got nearer. Inside the last 5km and the atmosphere was fantastic with the race still hours away a real carnivali was taking place, so much so that the police decided to close the last Km. Now, having sweated my way up this far, I was not going to let a barrier get in my way, excuse the pun, so I ducked under only to feel the strong arm of the law grab my seat post and try and bring me to a stop. Slightly wobbly, I managed to stay upright at the exact moment I heard a shout from the side of the road Mr.O'Brieeen, Mr.O'Brieeeen, by sheer coincidence the police grab had taken place in front of some neighbours from back home who were setting up their, flags, picnic etc.) The policeman hesitated for a second, I kept pedaling, the crowd cheered and off I went, laying low as I coasted back down 5 minutes later, having just about reached the top I was now ready to watch the worlds best show me how it should be done.

Anyway, back to the race. In time honoured tradition my dad and me found our slot in the crowd with a load of slightly drunk Pantani fans with a crackly radio!! about 2 km from the finish. Panini lunch was eaten, wine was drunk and the atmosphere was building. As the race began its ascent an earlier break was soon absorbed, the lead group was down to around 35 riders, all the names.

The attacks begin, and Marco is defiant. Did he know this would be his last mountain climb?

Suddenly the news came of an attack with around 7km to go, no it can't be, surely not... it was, Pantani had jumped. News was sketchy, but the thought was enough, the crowd was stoked. A few minutes later it was confirmed. Pantani had a small gap! The Pink Jersey was having to bring him back, unbelievable. Go Marco! They're all together again, no wait Pantani is gone again, fantastic, Garzelli is struggling! Simoni is bridging, Pantani has had another dig... The crowd is going ballistic, the lead motorbikes push past, the fans fill in behind them immediately as we look down at the hairpin bend below - then suddenly through the masses comes the pink jersey beside Pantani in yellow, is he edging ahead, Pellizotti, follows Frigo, a Lampre rider, the noise is deafening, the riders so focused and cool, eyes fixed, Go Marco, Go Marco...

Simoni, the maglia rosa is forced to bridge up to Pantani, no 'gifts' in defence of his overall lead.

They've passed and are out of sight around the hairpins above, slower riders continue to come through, a young Cunego, Marco Velo, I spot some honorary Brits! Scott Sunderland, Wegelius, Julian Winn!... but the legend has gone, although no one knew at the time what an historic moment we had just screamed our heads of at - months later we would remember a rider that even when not at his peak could ignite any race at the top level. The stage eventually resulted in a win for Simoni, ensuring his overall Giro, Pantani came in 40 seconds later in 12th, for a rider of his calibre - a non result!

Simoni was victorious at the waterfall, but the 'tifosi' only wanted Pantani.

Being a dead end climb the organisers had parked all the team coaches in a small village square about 5km back down the climb, so as I rode back down I pulled in with everyone else, to await the return of the riders. As an illustration of how sport wants winners and soon forgets ex-winners I'll always remember the huge red Saeco coach mobbed by TV & press waiting for Simoni to get back. Whilst a little further down two small yellow 'Mercantone Uno' camper vans waited to greet Marco, not the most impressive team transport - but the large crowd waiting for their hero told its own story.

Marco tried in vain with attack after attack, a fallen hero in his eyes maybe, but still the crowds favourite! as he crossed the line rather unimpressed behind team mate Cristian Casperoni. Was this a defining moment for Il Pirata?

One of Italy's cycling secrets is the Cascata del Toce climb that stops just short of Switzerland, where this lake feeds the falls that run into the Toce river. Great riding with superb views and since 2003 the setting for Pantani's last mountain."

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Share your story. Write a story about your cycling trip, or an aspect of your trip, in Italy. Or, it can be about a granfondo experience, a special encounter, your favorite ride, etc. The period for story submissions for prizes will be January 1-February 15, 2011. Prizes will be awarded on a random basis, stories will not be judged on which is the "best" one. Nevertheless, it should be a good story for the enjoyment of all readers. Photos accompanying the story are most welcome. If you have any questions email me at See photos of prizes here. Prize donated by:
CycleItalia, specializing in cycling tours in Italy, the premiere site for gifts and merchandise for cyclists
Enzo’s ButtonHole Chamois Cream,chamois cream for the ultimate protection
FreeBirdVelo, Italian themed T-shirts
Strada Hand Built Wheels, custom wheel building
Velo-Retro, all things retro for cycling
La Gazzetta della Bici, massage oils for cyclists

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  1. Nice story, it was sad to watch on TV and Dario Frigo later wondered if it would have been better to let The Pirate have this win. The fans made the call with Pantani certainly loved and missed much more than Simoni! Sadly, Pantani's exclusion from the TdF that year was the final insult in his career, in Larry's mind he was robbed of his last chance at glory or redemption by the Tour organizers -- as a previous champion who showed more than decent form at this Giro, he should have been invited to LeTour!

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